Life in Santa Cruz

The city of Santa Cruz de la Sierra (typically shortened to Santa Cruz) is located about 100 kilometers (60 miles) east of the foothills of the Andes Mountain Range. Santa Cruz is the capital of the province of Santa Cruz, the largest of the seven provinces of Bolivia. The center of the city has a newly renovated plaza bordered by a large church, an open area for concerts or artesian events, banks, a museum, restaurants and shops. The plaza is a social center of the city, where families and friends gathered at all hours. The city builds out from the central plaza in concentric rings. Most products and services are located within the first four rings of the city. SCCS is located southwest of the plaza between the third and fourth rings.

Santa Cruz is full of opportunities you might expect from a larger city including various types of products, services and entertainment. In addition to many small convenience stores, the city has large grocery stores and smaller-scaled Target-like stores. You’ll also find indoor and outdoor clothes shopping centers, various types of gyms and work-out facilities, a university, a professional soccer stadium, different denominations of churches (although Catholic churches are most common), hospitals, nightclubs and discos, movie theaters, bowling alleys, karaoke bars and corner "Kioskos” which provide opportunities for social interaction and an enriching look into the Latin culture.

As with most cities, there are sections of highly developed areas with modern buildings and beautifully manicured courtyards. More common are areas with older looking buildings and unpaved, or unevenly paved, streets. Santa Cruz is a relatively safe city. Strangers are generally treated with respect, including women walking alone. However, as with any large city, it is important to be aware of your surroundings and take appropriate precautions.

Bolivia is a third-world country and you will see instances of inequity, class distinction, sexism, racism, and cultural conflict. A middle economic class is not readily apparent and you will immediately find yourself in the upper economic class. The children selling peanuts, juggling or cleaning car windshields on street corners will mark you immediately. You will be viewed as a rich person regardless of your circumstances, so always negotiate a price prior to agreeing to a product or service. In reality, you likely have access to more money than many Bolivians will have in their lifetime. As such, you should be sensitive to the fact that you may be a cause of envy or a target of theft.

The upper economic class of Bolivian society enjoys financial freedom in a depressed economy. Upper-class families often have several homes and frequently travel internationally. It is common to have live- in maids, nannies and a full staff for domestic maintenance. Most students at SCCS come from families such as these. Typical of Latin American cultures, Bolivians are a very social people. When women greet men or other women they exchange a kiss on the left cheek and when men greet other men they exchange a hug or a handshake. When arriving at an event, it is considered good manners to great each person with a kiss, hug or handshake before settling into the occasion. The social connection between the students at SCCS is very strong and since social interaction is so embedded in Latin American culture, you can expect the need to adjust your classroom management style to accommodate for this.

Cultural differences are to be expected and can be interesting but sometimes uncomfortable. It is important to recognize that we are guests in Bolivia and our behavior reflects upon us, our school and the countries we call home.


Weather
The city is relatively flat and lies in the cross-flow of north and south winds that follow the Andes. As a result, there is a more or less constant breeze, ranging from mild breezes to strong winds, throughout the year. These winds usually keep the heat from feeling oppressive though it can get dusty.  The average climate in the eastern lowlands of Bolivia is hot and humid but the weather may be rather cool and wet when you arrive, and sweaters and/or jackets will be necessary. It isn’t really cold by U.S. standards, but the dampness penetrates and, while most days of the year will be hot, there will be days when you will need pants and a winter sweater/jacket.

In the winter (June – Sept.), winds come from Antarctica, bringing a cold rain. These “Surasos” may last several days to a week and may occur several times a month. Otherwise winters are mild and agreeable. Most of the rain falls in fairly quick storms which often occur during the night. Seldom does rain “set in.” The weather can change quickly year-round because the winds rapidly change direction from north to south. Most of the year the weather will be warm and humid (85 – 95 degrees F), however, during the winter months it can get cold (50 degrees F).

To see the what the weeather forecast looks like now click here.


Political Climate
Bolivia has an unstable political climate which, among other things, can be attributed to the lack of a sea port, the lack of a developed infrastructure and the resulting challenge of extricating the country’s rich natural resources. In addition, the eastern provinces, Santa Cruz in particular, strive to attain financial and political independence from the western provinces and the capital cities of La Paz and Sucre.

The effect of Bolivia’s political unrest on life of SCCS staff members is minimal. Strikes and marches are somewhat common and occasionally school is canceled due to a ban on public and/or private transportation. It is recommended that the expatriate staff not join in or observe marches or rallies as they can become dangerous.


Language
Spanish is the most common language spoken in Santa Cruz. Unlike many European cities or larger South American cities, you will not find many English-speaking Bolivians in Santa Cruz, including those dedicated to the tourism business. Your encounters with English-speaking Bolivians will mostly be with the students and parents at SCCS. Having at least a basic understanding of the Spanish language will make living in Santa Cruz much easier for you. SCCS provides Spanish classes after school for non Spanish-speaking staff members and there is also a language university in the city where you can take classes.


Currency
The Bolivian currency is called the Boliviano. The current exchange rate (October, 2008) is 7.00 Bolivianos (Bs) to the dollar. The smaller denomination is called a centavo. There are 100 centavos in a boliviano just as there are 100 cents in a dollar. Bolivianos come in coins (1’s, 2’s and 5’s) and bills (10’s, 20’s, 50’s, 100’s, and 200’s) and all centavos are coins (10’s, 20’s, and 50’s).  Santa Cruz is a cash society. Travelers’ cheques are seldom used and credit cards are usually only used for purchasing things like airline tickets. However, you can use your credit/debit card at most large grocery stores and some restaurants, but cash is much more common.

ATMs are easy to find and offer the option of extracting dollars or Bolivianos as both are accepted almost everywhere in Santa Cruz. No matter which currency you use, the amount you give to any vendor should be as close to the purchase price as possible because change is hard to come by. Small proprietors are often unable to make change. For example, if you go to a restaurant and your check totals 25 Bs, you should not pay with a $20 bill (~140 Bs) because the restaurant is not likely to have change. In fact, they may not have change for 100 Bs either. When you have the opportunity to change 100 Bs into smaller denominations (e.g. grocery store), do so as smaller bills are more versatile. Do not bring dollars with the smallest rip in the bill because they will not be accepted. Bolivianos can be ripped, taped together and wadded up in a ball and will be accepted but dollars must be absent of any tears to be accepted.


Food
Bolivian cuisine consists mostly of beef or chicken accompanied by starchy foods like rice, potatoes and yucca. Surubi, a local river catfish, is also frequently on the menu. Spices used for sauces can be spicy but non-spicy entrees can easily be found at most restaurants.  The Bolivian “salteña” is a typical breakfast or afternoon treat. Similar to and as different as the Italian calzone, the Polish perogi, or the Mexican empanada, the Bolivian salteña is a bread pocket filled with chicken or beef, egg, vegetables and a juicy sauce. In addition to Bolivian restaurants in Santa Cruz you will find good American, Canadian, Chinese, Italian, Japanese, Korean, and other South American restaurants.

Bolivia, as a third world country, has different hygiene rules. You should be careful about what and where you eat. Restaurants are usually safe but food from street markets is not a good idea as refrigeration is not always possible or deemed necessary. There are supermarkets in the city offering some American- made products, but they are priced higher than in the States. Goods from Bolivia, Brazil, Chile, Peru and Argentina are available at lower prices than the U.S. products and are of good quality.  There are several large local markets, and many small ones throughout the city, that offer seasonal fruits and vegetables at reasonable prices. Bread and bakery products can be purchased almost anywhere and dairy products are good and widely available as well.

Transportation
Public transportation within the city includes “micros” (little buses) and taxis. A micro ride will cost 2 Bs from the time you get on to the time you get off.  Micros are the most affordable mode of transportation but learning the system takes time as there is not a good comprehensive map or schedule. Micros are usually packed full so it is not recommended to carry valuables; women are urged not to ride alone.

Radio taxis are the safest form of public transportation because the taxi driver is accountable to someone. These taxis have a radio dispatch system and can be identified by a sticker in the window. Radio taxis are easy to find almost anywhere in the city or can be called and sent to your location. Taxi rides can be a jarring experience because most taxi cars are in disrepair and the roads are quite bumpy. Seatbelts are mostly nonexistent, although required by law for the driver, and driving techniques can be terrifying. While driving in Bolivia, “whoever gets there first” generally has the right-of-way. As with many culturally different experiences, what at first appears scary soon turns out to have a rhythm of its own.

Taxi prices vary depending on how far you go or how long you want to hire the taxi. Taxis are easy to find and are quite inexpensive. Depending where you live, a trip to/from SCCS will likely cost around 10 Bs and getting to most places in the city will be less than 15 Bs although the price goes up later in the evening and when there are more than two people in the taxi. The price should be negotiated prior to getting in the taxi or you may pay more than you should.  

Many teachers use taxis as their primary form of transportation.Other teachers buy cars for additional freedom within the city and to take trips outside the city. The most commonly purchased cars are 4-wheel drive vehicles because most of the roads outside the city are unpaved and bumpy. Used cars or trucks are expensive to buy but can usually be sold for close to the purchase price a few years later. Car maintenance costs are usually much less expensive than in the U.S. Car parts are similar in price but labor costs are extremely low.

Scooters and bicycles are not considered safe transportation throughout the city because Bolivian divers can be aggressive. However, if you enjoy bike riding, there are plenty of places to ride.


Travel Within and Outside of Bolivia
Long distance travel within Bolivia requires patience and flexibility. The roads can be extremely bad, especially during the wet season, and it often takes more time than you expect to reach your destination, sometimes many hours more. Traveling by bus can be a long, hot and harrowing experience. Those who can afford to usually travel by taxi, private vehicle or plane. You can also rent 4-wheel drive vehicles for prices comparable to U.S. prices.

Flights to neighboring countries vary greatly but are obviously much more affordable than flying from another continent. For travel to Buenos Aires, Sao Paulo, Rio de Janeiro, and Santiago, airfare ranges between $300 and $550. Flights are listed on expedia.com if you care to price flights to your dream destination in South America.

Unlike in the U.S., where airport taxes are figured into the ticket price, both domestic and international flights from Santa Cruz require payment of airport taxes. For domestic flights, the costs are minimal; around $2. For international flights, you will pay a $25 airport tax plus between $20 and $100 in travel taxes per person. These taxes must be paid in cash (dollars or Bolivianos) at the airport prior to your departure. If you are traveling to Argentina, Brazil, Chile or Paraguay, the tourist visas are technically free but there is $100.00 processing fee for anyone traveling with an American passport. These governments require this fee because it is the same value that the United States charges their citizens to acquire a U.S. visa.

Once you have your Bolivian resident visa, you will need to have exit and entry stamps in your passport each time you leave Bolivia. A travel agent can secure these for you. If you have children the government requires you to obtain a “permiso” for each child before they are allowed to travel within or outside the country. This document is required whether or not you travel with your children. The “permiso” is not expensive, but generally both parents must sign for it in person.

The country of Bolivia, roughly three times the size of Montana, is geographically diverse. Each region of the country reveals its charm in totally different settings. You can visit the mystical Lake Titicaca, the snowcapped mountains of the Andes and the vast salt flats in the west or stay to the east and find adventures in low- lying savannahs, swampy rivers or rugged jungles. The amount of nationally protected land is astoundingly one of the highest in South America. Huge National Parks can be found in any region of the country and are worth visiting.

Samaipata is a quaint village located west and south of Santa Cruz in the foothills of the Andes Mountains with an elevation of 1660 m (5,446 ft.). You can hire a private radio taxi for about 120 Bs ($15) or you can drive to the city in roughly 2 ½ hours. You will not find an ATM or a smooth road in the town but you will find plenty of nice pubs, restaurants and cabana-style resorts. Samaipata is a popular destination for SCCS staff because it is usually about 10 degrees (F) cooler than Santa Cruz and offers comfortable lodging and spectacular views. Samaipata's main attractions include "El Fuerte," a pre-Incan holy place or ancient alien landing sight, depending on who tells the story, and the north entrance to the Amboro National Park which provides attractive trekking and camping.

Buena Vista is another popular weekend destination. The town is smaller than Samaipata but is home to some very comfortable resorts with excellent views of the foothills. Time spent in Buena Vista is usually relaxing and basking in the sun or venturing into the forests to see the many varieties of flora and fauna. Long distance travel within Bolivia requires patience and flexibility. The roads can be extremely bad, especially during the wet season, and it often takes more time than you expect, to reach your destination, sometimes many hours more. Traveling by bus within Bolivia can be a long, hot and harrowing experience. Those who can afford to usually travel by taxi, private vehicle or plane. You can also rent 4-wheel drive vehicles for prices comparable to U.S. prices.